- K20A3- 2.0L DOHC i-VTEC- '02+ RSX/'02+ (160hp)
- K20A2- 2.0L DOHC i-VTEC- '02+ RSX Type S/'02+ Civic Type R (200hp)
- K20A- JDM 2.0L DOHC i-VTEC- '02+ Integra Type R (220ps)
- F20A1- JDM 2.0L DOHC non-VTEC- 90-93 Accord Si (155hp)
- F20B- JDM 2.0L DOHC VTEC- 90-93 Accord Si-R (190ps)
- F20C1- 2.0L DOHC VTEC- '00+ S2000 (250ps/240hp)
- F22A1- USDM 2.2L non-VTEC- 92-96 Prelude S/90-93 (130hp-135hp)
- H22A1- USDM 2.2L DOHC VTEC- 92-96 Prelude VTEC (190hp)
- H22A4- 2.2L DOHC VTEC- 97-01 Prelude VTEC/SH (97-98: 195hp / 99-01: 200hp)
- H22A- JDM 2.2L DOHC VTEC- 92+ Prelude Type-S, 97+ Prelude SiR S Spec. (220ps)
- H23A1- USDM 2.2L DOHC non-VTEC- Prelude Si (160hp)
Monday, October 4, 2010
New series of Engine models
Known Engine that have been used over 16 years already..
- B16A1 1595cc , 4 cyl, 16 valve DOHC VTEC , 160 bhp @ 7600, 111 lb-ft @ 7000, Redline: 8200 rpm
- B16A2/A3 1595cc,4 cyl, 16 valve DOHC VTEC , 160 bhp @ 7600,111-ft @ 7000, Redline: 8200 rpm
- B16A4 1595cc, 4 cyl, 16 valve DOHC VTEC , 170 bhp @ 7800 ,16Nm @ 7300, Redline: 8200 rpm
- B16B Spec-R1595cc , 4 cyl, 16 valve DOHC VTEC , 185 bhp @ 8200,16.3Nm @ 7600,Redline: 9000 rpm
- B17 1678cc ,4 cyl, 16 valve DOHC VTEC, 160 bhp @ 7600, 117 lb-ft @ 7000 , Redline: 8000 rpm
- B18B 1834cc , 4 cyl, 16 valve DOHC, 130 bhp @ 6000,121 lb-ft @ 5000 , Redline: 6500 rpm
- B18B1 1834cc , 4 cyl, 16 valve DOHC , 140 hp @ 6300,121 lb-ft @ 5200, Redline: 6800 rpm
- B18C1 1797cc ,4 cyl, 16 valve DOHC VTEC , 170 bhp @ 7600, 128lbs-ft @ 6200, Redline: 8200 rpm
- B18C Spec-R1797cc ,4 cyl, 16 valve DOHC VTEC, 200ps @ 8000 rmp, 19.0kg/cm2, Redline: 8400 rpm
List of parts you need
- ECU with harness
- Engine mounts
- Axles
- Clutch line
- Brake lines
- Fuel line
- New after market high performance air intake
- Heater hoses
- Radiator hoses
- New clutch w/resurfaced flywheel
- Cable ties
- Primary air fuel ratio sensor
- Shift cables, shift box
- Black tape
- Extra wires
- Engine coolant temp sensor
- Vacuum hoses
- Brake booster hose
- Thin cooling fan
- Hi-flow exhaust
- Header
Intructions on removing a any Honda engine.
- Disconnect the battery positive and negative terminals.
- Open the engine hood in a vertical position.
DO NOT remove the engine hood. - Raise the car to full height. Remove the front wheels and engine splash shield.
- Drain the engine coolant. By loosen the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator tank.
- Drain the transmission oil/fluid.
- Drain the engine oil.
- Lower the car. Open the hood as far open as possible.
- Remove the strut brace.
- Remove the under-hood ABS fuse/relay box.
- Remove the air intake duct, the resonator and the air cleaner assembly.
- Relieve fuel pressure by slowly loosening the service bolt on the fuel filter about one turn.
- Remove the fuel feed hose and evaporative emission control canister hose from the intake manifold.
- Remove the throttle cable by loosening the locknut then slip the cable out of the accelerator linkage.
- Remove the engine wire harness connectors on the left side of the engine compartment.
- Remove the fuel return hose and brake booster vacuum hose.
- Remove the engine wire harness connectors, terminal and clamps on the right side of the engine compartment.
- Remove the battery cable/starter cable from the under-hood fuse/relay box and ABS power cable from the battery terminal.
- Remove the engine ground cable from the cylinder head.
- Remove the power steering (P/S) belt and pump. (if equipped - ignore, rather remove the pump lines)
- Remove the air conditioning (A/C) belt and compressor. (if equipped)
DO NOT remove the A/C hoses. - Remove the transmission ground cable and the automatic transmission (ATF) cooler hoses.
- Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and the heater hoses.
- Raise the car to full height.
- Remove the exhaust pipe and bracket.
- Remove the A/T shift cable. (if equipped)
- Remove the clutch slave cylinder and pipe hose assembly.
DO NOT remove the pipe/hose assembly - Remove the shift rod and extension rod.
- Remove the damper fork.
- Remove the suspension lower arm ball joint with special tool.
- Remove the driveshaft.
- Lower the car.
- Attach the engine chain lifter to the engine.
- Remove the left and right front engine mount and brackets.
- Remove the rear engine mounting bracket.
- Remove the support nuts/bolt and mount bolt, then remove the driver's side engine mount.
- Remove the transmission mount nuts. Loosen the mount bolt and pivot the transmission side mount out of the way.
- Raise the chain lifter to remove all slack from the chain.
- Check that the engine is completely free of vacuum hoses, fuel and coolant hoses, and electrical wiring.
- Slowly raise the engine approximately 6 in. Check once again that all hoses and wires have been disconnected from the engine.
- Raise the engine all the way and remove it from the car.
Let’s get to the engines PART 2
B20B, B20Z: The B20 engine is the newcomer in the game and is highly acclaimed by its supporters. It has several key characteristics that give this engine real potential no matter what route you decide to persue. The B20B came on the 1996-1998 CRV and the B20Z came on 1999-2000 CRV. The B20B made 126 hp but the real jewel was the 133lbs of torque that was easily achieved almost anywhere in the RPM band. It is a small displacement engine that has flat torque line!!! Additionally it was a comparatively low compression engine which means that turbocharging to decent levels is possible without the need to spend hundreds on rods or pistons. The B20Z was more or less the same as the B20B but they changed several head characteristics and the compression was bumped up to increase the horsepower to 146.
There are really two choices for dealing the B20 as far as power goes. You could leave it as is and simply swap the head for B16 model. The cylinder head on the B20B model (particularly the tall intake manifold) doesn't clear the hoodline of the civic, which is ok since the B16 head swap will add Vtec abilities and increased power. OR you could go about what is called a CR-VTEC conversion. This is what I consider to be the ultimate engine build-up for civics’. You can check out www.crvtec.com for details. The first thing you need to know about B-series engine (B18, B16, B20) is that they all have, for the most part, interchangeable engine parts. So the CRVTEC buildup basically consists of taking the best parts of all the engines and making an unprecedented Frankenstein of motor that has a perfect Rod to Stroke ratio of near 1.75 which allows for great naturally aspirated performance (A HUGE redline) or the ability to turbocharge the engine to very large proportions without worrying about engine stability. It is unfortunately rather expensive but this setup will take you anywhere you want to go. The simple B20/B16 swap costs as follows: $1000-$1500 for the B20 short block, +/- $600 for the B16 head, +/- $300 for the B16 ECU + tranny and other small parts. The price for the CR/VTEC could be calculated on the aforementioned site.
Unless you’re simply happy with the stock B20 swap, the only reasons it should be considered are CRVTEC conversions or Forced Induction. The aftermarket support isn’t as plentiful for the B20 as it is for the other engine mentioned so any engine upgrades usually come from other B series or upgraded aftermarket parts for other B series. Which is more less slowly building a CRVTEC engine. But I still highly recommend this engine for the best bang for the buck power adder.
H22A1, H23A1, H22A4: The H23A1 came on the lude Si’s, the highly acclaimed H22A1 came on the 4th gen Si VTEC models and H22A4 came on the 5th generation Si VTEC’s.. And all three engines are MONSTERS compared to what we’re used to. The H22A1 produces a nice 190 hp while the H22A4 produces an even greater 195hp and the H23A1 produces 160hp but they all produce a THICK ASS 160 lb.-ft of torque at relatively low rpm. Giving your 2500lb civic wheel spinning capabilities comparable to a V8 F-body. The whole engine should cost about the same as a GSR swap, $3000-$3500. The down side is the fact that the engine also weighs about 200 lbs. more than the engine you have in your bay now. This effectively makes your weight distribution even worse than what it was before. This causes all types of havoc with your other systems, including suspension, braking and cooling. The engine is also of course very large in size so it's a tight fit into the tiny civic engine bay providing that you make space by removing both air-conditioning and power steering systems.
From talks with several veteran H22 swappers I can give you the overall driving opinion. To make the swap work, first off the springs and shocks in the front need to be stiffened to appropriately handle the extra weight. The overall suspension tuning should concentrate on trying to create heavy oversteer to offset the natural understeer problem the extra weight will create. There is another way to offset the understeer problem but most ppl don't want to go through with it. It involves placing a few hundred pounds of weight in the trunk to even out the weight distribution. But most ppl want to go the other way by stripping everything out of the interior, effectively making it worse. The cooling system will amazingly enough be fine for about 75% of the time. However, on hot days or with spirited driving, the engine can start to overheat itself. For the financially strapped, an extra wide Integra radiator can be swapped in for about $100 that will provide all the extra cooling you need. You can learn about it here: http://www.hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/jsrad/jsrad.html. If you have the extra money, you could swap in an all aluminum thick ass racing radiator with a smaller and more efficient fan and for extra insurance, a low temperature thermostat (160 degree rather than 180) could be replaced. Considering you no longer have air-conditioning the extra space that was once used by the AC condenser could be put to good use and it could be used for an external oil cooler. With this setup you could go uphill mountain racing without fear overheating. The braking system for the most part could work but if you really want to trust your life to stock system, be my guest. If you'd like to upgrade it, the cheap way is to replace the rotors for better heat dissipation (You could either get stock sized cross-drilled or slotted rotors, or you could opt for a bigger rotor kit that uses a relocated bracket so you can use the stock calipers) better brake pads and rear brake disk swap if not already equipped (Instructions HERE). If you have some money, you could get a 4-piston caliper upgrade with extra large rotors with great pads. Just the thing to stop you at 150 mph. If you do opt for the bigger rotor upgrade, remember that the stock wheels will no longer fit over the larger brakes. Some systems suggest 16” or larger.
Let me remind you that this is all extra $$$. The basic swap still includes about $1000 worth of junkyard parts just to make it work, which includes axles, linkages, ECU, HASport mounts, etc. PLUS the cost of the engine itself. This is definitely not the cheap swap.
F20B: This 2.0 liter engine is the rarest of all the swaps. It’s the JDM Accord Si-R engine and it produced a healthy 200hp. The reason I leave this for last is because finding one is like trying to find an unlit cigarette from the 70’s and finding parts for them are even harder. Although not impossible to swap though, it falls under the same category as the H22 swaps. In fact the mounts for swapping the H22 will also work on the F20B. I’ve never personally seen or even heard of this swap done so there has to be a reason for it. I would advise to consider other options.
Ok, So far we've covered the D16Z6, D16Y8, D15B7, B16A1, B16A2, B16A3, B16B, B17A, B18B1, B18C1, B18C5, H22A1 H23A1, H22A4 and the F20B. Talk about choices!!! But we're only half way through. Now we go to the second part of the swapping experience, which is cylinder head swapping. Sometimes called a Frankenstein, engine hybrid, mini-me or LS/VTEC swaps. Head swapping usually includes getting a Non-Vtec block (B18B, D15B) and taking the entire cylinder head assembly from a Vtec enabled block (B18C1, D16Z6) and swapping it onto the Non-Vtec block. Effectively giving the non-Vtec block Vtec capabilities just like his older brothers. Hence the name LS/VTEC. LS for Non-Vtec and Vtec for...Vtec . It isn't easy though. The Vtec assemblies use oil to activate the system so oil lines will need to be tapped, the block and head need small preparations to flawlessly mate the two and the ECU from the Vtec enabled block will also be needed. So the grocery list includes the ENTIRE cylinder head set and everything attached to it, The intake manifold, throttle body, throttle cable, distributor, Vtec solenoid, EVERYTHING. You will also need the ECU, Vtec oil pump and various other lines and fittings and someone who's done this before. Here’s a great site that gets to the nitty gritty of the procedure:
There are really two choices for dealing the B20 as far as power goes. You could leave it as is and simply swap the head for B16 model. The cylinder head on the B20B model (particularly the tall intake manifold) doesn't clear the hoodline of the civic, which is ok since the B16 head swap will add Vtec abilities and increased power. OR you could go about what is called a CR-VTEC conversion. This is what I consider to be the ultimate engine build-up for civics’. You can check out www.crvtec.com for details. The first thing you need to know about B-series engine (B18, B16, B20) is that they all have, for the most part, interchangeable engine parts. So the CRVTEC buildup basically consists of taking the best parts of all the engines and making an unprecedented Frankenstein of motor that has a perfect Rod to Stroke ratio of near 1.75 which allows for great naturally aspirated performance (A HUGE redline) or the ability to turbocharge the engine to very large proportions without worrying about engine stability. It is unfortunately rather expensive but this setup will take you anywhere you want to go. The simple B20/B16 swap costs as follows: $1000-$1500 for the B20 short block, +/- $600 for the B16 head, +/- $300 for the B16 ECU + tranny and other small parts. The price for the CR/VTEC could be calculated on the aforementioned site.
Unless you’re simply happy with the stock B20 swap, the only reasons it should be considered are CRVTEC conversions or Forced Induction. The aftermarket support isn’t as plentiful for the B20 as it is for the other engine mentioned so any engine upgrades usually come from other B series or upgraded aftermarket parts for other B series. Which is more less slowly building a CRVTEC engine. But I still highly recommend this engine for the best bang for the buck power adder.
H22A1, H23A1, H22A4: The H23A1 came on the lude Si’s, the highly acclaimed H22A1 came on the 4th gen Si VTEC models and H22A4 came on the 5th generation Si VTEC’s.. And all three engines are MONSTERS compared to what we’re used to. The H22A1 produces a nice 190 hp while the H22A4 produces an even greater 195hp and the H23A1 produces 160hp but they all produce a THICK ASS 160 lb.-ft of torque at relatively low rpm. Giving your 2500lb civic wheel spinning capabilities comparable to a V8 F-body. The whole engine should cost about the same as a GSR swap, $3000-$3500. The down side is the fact that the engine also weighs about 200 lbs. more than the engine you have in your bay now. This effectively makes your weight distribution even worse than what it was before. This causes all types of havoc with your other systems, including suspension, braking and cooling. The engine is also of course very large in size so it's a tight fit into the tiny civic engine bay providing that you make space by removing both air-conditioning and power steering systems.
From talks with several veteran H22 swappers I can give you the overall driving opinion. To make the swap work, first off the springs and shocks in the front need to be stiffened to appropriately handle the extra weight. The overall suspension tuning should concentrate on trying to create heavy oversteer to offset the natural understeer problem the extra weight will create. There is another way to offset the understeer problem but most ppl don't want to go through with it. It involves placing a few hundred pounds of weight in the trunk to even out the weight distribution. But most ppl want to go the other way by stripping everything out of the interior, effectively making it worse. The cooling system will amazingly enough be fine for about 75% of the time. However, on hot days or with spirited driving, the engine can start to overheat itself. For the financially strapped, an extra wide Integra radiator can be swapped in for about $100 that will provide all the extra cooling you need. You can learn about it here: http://www.hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/jsrad/jsrad.html. If you have the extra money, you could swap in an all aluminum thick ass racing radiator with a smaller and more efficient fan and for extra insurance, a low temperature thermostat (160 degree rather than 180) could be replaced. Considering you no longer have air-conditioning the extra space that was once used by the AC condenser could be put to good use and it could be used for an external oil cooler. With this setup you could go uphill mountain racing without fear overheating. The braking system for the most part could work but if you really want to trust your life to stock system, be my guest. If you'd like to upgrade it, the cheap way is to replace the rotors for better heat dissipation (You could either get stock sized cross-drilled or slotted rotors, or you could opt for a bigger rotor kit that uses a relocated bracket so you can use the stock calipers) better brake pads and rear brake disk swap if not already equipped (Instructions HERE). If you have some money, you could get a 4-piston caliper upgrade with extra large rotors with great pads. Just the thing to stop you at 150 mph. If you do opt for the bigger rotor upgrade, remember that the stock wheels will no longer fit over the larger brakes. Some systems suggest 16” or larger.
Let me remind you that this is all extra $$$. The basic swap still includes about $1000 worth of junkyard parts just to make it work, which includes axles, linkages, ECU, HASport mounts, etc. PLUS the cost of the engine itself. This is definitely not the cheap swap.
F20B: This 2.0 liter engine is the rarest of all the swaps. It’s the JDM Accord Si-R engine and it produced a healthy 200hp. The reason I leave this for last is because finding one is like trying to find an unlit cigarette from the 70’s and finding parts for them are even harder. Although not impossible to swap though, it falls under the same category as the H22 swaps. In fact the mounts for swapping the H22 will also work on the F20B. I’ve never personally seen or even heard of this swap done so there has to be a reason for it. I would advise to consider other options.
Ok, So far we've covered the D16Z6, D16Y8, D15B7, B16A1, B16A2, B16A3, B16B, B17A, B18B1, B18C1, B18C5, H22A1 H23A1, H22A4 and the F20B. Talk about choices!!! But we're only half way through. Now we go to the second part of the swapping experience, which is cylinder head swapping. Sometimes called a Frankenstein, engine hybrid, mini-me or LS/VTEC swaps. Head swapping usually includes getting a Non-Vtec block (B18B, D15B) and taking the entire cylinder head assembly from a Vtec enabled block (B18C1, D16Z6) and swapping it onto the Non-Vtec block. Effectively giving the non-Vtec block Vtec capabilities just like his older brothers. Hence the name LS/VTEC. LS for Non-Vtec and Vtec for...Vtec . It isn't easy though. The Vtec assemblies use oil to activate the system so oil lines will need to be tapped, the block and head need small preparations to flawlessly mate the two and the ECU from the Vtec enabled block will also be needed. So the grocery list includes the ENTIRE cylinder head set and everything attached to it, The intake manifold, throttle body, throttle cable, distributor, Vtec solenoid, EVERYTHING. You will also need the ECU, Vtec oil pump and various other lines and fittings and someone who's done this before. Here’s a great site that gets to the nitty gritty of the procedure:
Let’s get to the engines starting with the smallest and cheapest candidates
D16Z6, D16Y8, D15B7: If you have one of the lower and cheaper civic models, IE The Cx, Dx, Lx and If you're looking for a cheap power increase while still maintaining stock gas mileage then the possibility of swapping in one of the higher model civic engines is right up your alley. The D16Z6 is the SOHC 5th Gen. Si and Ex engine pushing 125hp @ 6600 rpm and 106 lb.-ft of torque @ 5200 rpm. The D16Y8 is the 6th gen. SOHC Ex engine pushing 127hp @ 6600 rpm and 107 lb.-ft of torque @ 5500 rpm. These are extremely easy to find since allot ppl swap them out in favor for more expensive engines. They bolt in like stock and the whole package could be had for hundreds (You might even find someone who’s recently swapped who would basically give away their engine). Let's say you want something cheap but you could work on for possibly turbo or nitrous? The D16Y8 is cheap and the pistons are the exact size of TT Supra pistons. They could substitute for forged versions and work just as well for a turbo upgrade. Be warned though as the D16Y8 has a particularly bad Rod to Stroke ratio at 1.52. I also suggest the B15B7 which is the 5th gen. Dx and Lx engine pushing 102hp @ 5900 rpm and 98 lb.-ft of torque @ 5000 rpm. If you have a 5th gen. Cx and you’re in need of the cheapest upgrade, this motor could be for you. Again you could probably find it for less than $500.
B16A1, B16A2, B16A3: If you need a little more power and have the money, the Civic Si and the del Sol VTEC engine are possibilities. They are all DOHC 1.6 liter engines pushing 160 hp @ 7600 rpm and 111lb.-ft of torque @ 7000 rpm. The A1 is the pre-obd engine that came with a cable transmission and various other pre 5th gen. items that need to be dealt with when considering the swap. The reason I point this out is because all 5th and 6th gen. civics came with hydraulic tranny's so think twice about this one. The upside is the cheap price. The A3 is the OBD1 engine out of the del Sol Vtec. These older models can be had for cheaper than OBD2 models and have upgraded various things such as hydro trannies. These are a perfect choice for the 5th genners. The A2 is the 99-00 Si engine. Same as the A3 only this one came with an upgraded OBD2 emissions system that is mandatory for all 96+ civic swappers. The B16A1 could be had for around $1200. The B16A3 could be found for about $2000-$2500 and the newer B16A2 could be found for around $2500-$3000.
They all lack a sufficient amount of torque due to their small displacement but their small mass and a bad ass R/S ratio of 1.74 allows them to rev to astronomical proportions. They also all have a HUGE aftermarket support. The only thing I don’t like about this particular swap is that this seems to be only one people think of. Whenever they want to swap engines, they all go for the B16. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a great engine but there are other engines out there to consider. I’ve even known people to be disappointed because they expected more. That’s what this article if for
B16B: Often regarded as the best 1.6 liter engine in the world, the JDM Civic Type R engine is the rarest of them all. Producing a whopping 185hp @ 8200 rpm and a reasonable 120 lb.-ft of torque @ 7600 rpm and being naturally aspirated, it is technical marvel. It was only available on the 1999-2000 Civic Type R and having one imported will run you easily into the $6000+ range. But you will be WELL respected and large thief magnet when ppl find out. If you have the money and like spending it on high octane gas for your 4 banger, why not?
B17A, B18B1: The B17A could be found on the 92-93 GSR producing 160hp @ 7600 rpm and 117 lb.-ft @ 7000 rpm. The B18B1 is the later model Integra LS, RS, and GS engines. They don't offer huge power outputs at 142hp @ 6300 rpm and 127 lb.-ft @ 5200 rpm, But they can be had for very cheap as they are plentiful and not really sought after by many people. The exception being for the B17A as it did have greater power output but they can still be had for cheap as they are generally older and in worse shape compared to the newer B18’s. Anyone of these should still offer a cheap, reliable power upgrade for your small civic. Anyone of these engines could be found for under $2000. The downside to these cheaper engines is their Rod to Stroke ratio. The B17 isn’t that bad but the B18B1 has a R/S ratio of 1.54. This does considerably reduce the maximum possible power output from these engines. But if you don't plan on turbocharging this engine past 15 psi or letting it rev to 11,000 rpm, then it should meet your modest power needs.
B18C1: Probably the most highly sought after swap candidate, this powerful little engine came on the late model Integra GSR and produced a hefty 170hp @ 7600 rpm and 128lbs-ft @ 6200 rpm. It is rather expensive at around $3000-$3500 and they are a little on the rare side considering everyone wants one, but a simple swap and your pocket rocket will be pushing high 14's with a stock engine. Even more by adding the small bolt-ons. And greddy has a bolt on intercooled turbocharger kit that'll give around 240 wheel hp. Which should put you deep into the 13 second range, possibly high 12's. This is the most desired swap candidate.
B18C5: This naturally aspirated wonder came on the late model Integra Type R and produced an even greater 195 hp @ 8100 rpm and about 130 lb.-ft of torque @ 7500 rpm. This is even more highly sought after than the GSR engine. And would in fact be more popular if it wasn't for its $5000+ price tag. But if you could afford it, there are few engines that would be as painless and give you the fastest performance available for the civic. This regarded as the naturally aspirated wonder because it does well producing large amounts of power without the need for snailshell's. Although a turbocharger can be bolted on to this bad-boy, it's generally not recommended, as this is a very high compression engine. If you were to used forced induction on such a high compression engine, you would either have to build it accordingly, have a REALLY good engine management system ($$$) or watch it blow up on the first run. The C1 is better suited for forced induction and would cost less in the long run.
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Read First Before you start reading it gets a little complicated
Familiarize yourself with these acronyms I will use to help cut back on long windyness:
OBD2a - 96-98 civic / 96-99 integra
OBD2b - 99-00 civic / 00-01 integra
EWH - engine wire harness
VTS - vtec solenoid
VTPS - vtec pressure switch
KS - knock sensor
IACV - idle air control valve
dizzy - distributor
PnP - plug n' play
OBD2a - 96-98 civic / 96-99 integra
OBD2b - 99-00 civic / 00-01 integra
EWH - engine wire harness
VTS - vtec solenoid
VTPS - vtec pressure switch
KS - knock sensor
IACV - idle air control valve
dizzy - distributor
PnP - plug n' play
Read more at http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1972711&kcplink=1
OBD2a/OBD2b Integra:
Engine Installation:
reuse all existing engine brackets/mounts/axles/shift linkage
Wiring:
Reuse existing EWH and follow wiring info for 96-98 civic for 96-99 Integra's or 99-00 Civic for 00-01 Integra's.
**OR**
You can actually use a US OBD1 engine wire harness in a 96-01 integra. You heard me right. 96-01 Integra's all retain a 2-piece wire harness design. Honda thankfully made the break off plugs backwards compatible with OBD1 EWH's.
So, if you can get your hands on any one of these OBD1 VTEC EWH:
94-95 integra GSR
92-95 civic Si/EX
93-95 DOHC Delsol
...you're all set..
Just make sure that if you own a non-VTEC integra that you have VTPS, VTS, and the KS wired in from the ecu plugs out to the shock tower plug and you'll be golden.
ECU:
Note: 96-01 OBD2 integra's all have the 2nd 02 sensor integrated into the cabin harness, so there's no need to wire in a 2nd 02 sensor at all for 96-01 integra's.
00-01 Integra ecu's are immobilizer equipped and cannot be swapped around unless the IMM is removed.
- (96-99 Integra) JDM OBD2 ecu (direct PnP). Same PRO/CONS as 96-98 civic w/JDM ecu.
- (00-01 Integra) JDM OBD2 ecu (OBD2b>OBD2a jumper harness required). Same PRO/CONS as 96-98 civic w/JDM ecu.
- (96-01 Integra) OBD1 ECU conversion; same PROS/CONS as 96-00 civic OBD1 conversion.
- (96-99 Integra) OBD2a US ECU; PnP; same PROS/CONS as 96-98 Civic.
- (00-01 Integra) OBD2a US ECU; same PROS/CONS as 99-00 Civic.
- (96-99 Integra) OBD2b US ECU; OBD2a>OBD2b jumper harness required; 00-01 integra ecu will need to have the immobilizer removed in order for 96-98 Integra to run.
- (00-01 Integra) OBD2b US ECU; 99-00 Si ECU will be PnP pin A15 needs to be moved to A16 for fuel pump operaton; 00-01 integra ecu will need to have the immobilizer removed in order for car to run.
reuse all existing engine brackets/mounts/axles/shift linkage
Wiring:
Reuse existing EWH and follow wiring info for 96-98 civic for 96-99 Integra's or 99-00 Civic for 00-01 Integra's.
**OR**
You can actually use a US OBD1 engine wire harness in a 96-01 integra. You heard me right. 96-01 Integra's all retain a 2-piece wire harness design. Honda thankfully made the break off plugs backwards compatible with OBD1 EWH's.
So, if you can get your hands on any one of these OBD1 VTEC EWH:
94-95 integra GSR
92-95 civic Si/EX
93-95 DOHC Delsol
...you're all set..
Just make sure that if you own a non-VTEC integra that you have VTPS, VTS, and the KS wired in from the ecu plugs out to the shock tower plug and you'll be golden.
ECU:
Note: 96-01 OBD2 integra's all have the 2nd 02 sensor integrated into the cabin harness, so there's no need to wire in a 2nd 02 sensor at all for 96-01 integra's.
00-01 Integra ecu's are immobilizer equipped and cannot be swapped around unless the IMM is removed.
- (96-99 Integra) JDM OBD2 ecu (direct PnP). Same PRO/CONS as 96-98 civic w/JDM ecu.
- (00-01 Integra) JDM OBD2 ecu (OBD2b>OBD2a jumper harness required). Same PRO/CONS as 96-98 civic w/JDM ecu.
- (96-01 Integra) OBD1 ECU conversion; same PROS/CONS as 96-00 civic OBD1 conversion.
- (96-99 Integra) OBD2a US ECU; PnP; same PROS/CONS as 96-98 Civic.
- (00-01 Integra) OBD2a US ECU; same PROS/CONS as 99-00 Civic.
- (96-99 Integra) OBD2b US ECU; OBD2a>OBD2b jumper harness required; 00-01 integra ecu will need to have the immobilizer removed in order for 96-98 Integra to run.
- (00-01 Integra) OBD2b US ECU; 99-00 Si ECU will be PnP pin A15 needs to be moved to A16 for fuel pump operaton; 00-01 integra ecu will need to have the immobilizer removed in order for car to run.
Read more at http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1972711&kcplink=1
99-00 Civic:
Engine info for 96-98 civic can be applied.
Wiring: Part 1
Wiring info is simliar to that of 96-98 civic but slightly different.
If you have a non-vtec civic you will have to perform these mods to your EWH in order to be compatible with an OBD1 VTEC engine: (1) add the respective wiring for VTEC (2) wire in the KS (unless you plan to use a P28 ecu) (3) *perform the IACV mod (4) change your dizzy plug to that of a 99-00 Si, 96-98 civic, or 96-01 integra large sized dizzy plug.
*The IACV mod consists of converting a 3-wire IACV plug to a 2-wire IACV plug, as explained in my diagrams below. All OBD1 engines use a 2-wire IACV:
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...0.jpg
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...g.jpg
For whatever reasons, Honda switched to a smaller style dizzy plug on all 99-00 SOHC civic's. This plug has to be changed if you plan to reuse your SOHC EWH on the OBD1 engine. You'll need a 99-00 Si dizzy plug or a 96-98 dizzy plug that you'll need to depin and mate to your 99-00 CX/DX EWH.
As an optional choice its highly suggested to fully switch over to a 99-00 Si EWH which in contrast is simliar to using an EX harness in a 96-98 civic. But again, the 2nd 02 sensor is part of the Si's cabin harness. So you will have to manually wire in the 2nd 02 if you ultimately plan to use a US OBD2 ecu.
Wiring: Part 2
Wiring info from 96-98 civic can be applied.
ECU
You have 3 options in this department.
Starting from easiest to hardest..
(option 1)
Use a 99-00 Si ecu
PROS: This is the easiest solution as this ecu plugs directly into your 99-00 EK, but you will need to perform the CKF bypass trick. Will be able to pass smog depending on certain variables. 99-00 Si ecu is compatible with US OBD2 scanner tools.
CONS: CFK bypass trick is required; OBD2 ecu reprogramming is very scarce; 2nd 02 sensor required.
ROS: This by far is the easiest solution as this ecu plugs directly into your EK and doesn't look for a VTPS
CONS: OBD2b>OBD2a jumper harness is required ecu upgrades are scarce; will not pass smog with a JDM OBD2 ecu as they do not communicate with US OBD2 scanner tools; 115-120mph speed limiter.
(option 2)
Convert to OBD1 ECU via OBD2b>OBD1 jumper harness and simply use an OBD1 ecu (JDM or US) to power the engine, such as a reprogrammed P28.
PROS: OBD1 ecu's rule in general as they are easily reprogrammable and do not look for additional sensors (2nd 02 & CKF for instance). OBD1 ecu's are very forgiving and not as sensitive as US OBD2 ecu's are.
CONS: cannot pass smog, VTPS required to be wired in.
(option 3a)
Stay US OBD2b spec by using a 99-00 Si ecu; 00-01 Integra GSR or ITR ECU (requires Immobilizer removal!)
(option 3b)
Convert to OBD2b spec via OBD2a>OBD2b jumper harness and use a 99-00 Civic Si ECU.
PROS: Can pass smog if CKF bypass trick is successfully performed in an integra or Civic Si chassis. If your Civic cx/dx is B-series BAR'd you should be able to pass smog too.
CONS: 2nd 02 needs to be wired in and working.
(option 4)
Run a JDM OBD2 ecu via OBD2b>OBD2a jumper harness.
Or run a JDM CTR (PCT) ecu which is OBD2b spec and will PnP.
PROS: CKF bypass trick is noCan pass smog if CKF bypass trick is successfully performed in an integra or Civic Si chassis. If your Civic cx/dx is B-series BAR'd you should be able to pass smog too.
CONS: Requires OBD2b>OBD2a jumper harness; Cannot pass smog; speed limiter at 115-120mph.
Wiring: Part 1
Wiring info is simliar to that of 96-98 civic but slightly different.
If you have a non-vtec civic you will have to perform these mods to your EWH in order to be compatible with an OBD1 VTEC engine: (1) add the respective wiring for VTEC (2) wire in the KS (unless you plan to use a P28 ecu) (3) *perform the IACV mod (4) change your dizzy plug to that of a 99-00 Si, 96-98 civic, or 96-01 integra large sized dizzy plug.
*The IACV mod consists of converting a 3-wire IACV plug to a 2-wire IACV plug, as explained in my diagrams below. All OBD1 engines use a 2-wire IACV:
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...0.jpg
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...g.jpg
For whatever reasons, Honda switched to a smaller style dizzy plug on all 99-00 SOHC civic's. This plug has to be changed if you plan to reuse your SOHC EWH on the OBD1 engine. You'll need a 99-00 Si dizzy plug or a 96-98 dizzy plug that you'll need to depin and mate to your 99-00 CX/DX EWH.
As an optional choice its highly suggested to fully switch over to a 99-00 Si EWH which in contrast is simliar to using an EX harness in a 96-98 civic. But again, the 2nd 02 sensor is part of the Si's cabin harness. So you will have to manually wire in the 2nd 02 if you ultimately plan to use a US OBD2 ecu.
Wiring: Part 2
Wiring info from 96-98 civic can be applied.
ECU
You have 3 options in this department.
Starting from easiest to hardest..
(option 1)
Use a 99-00 Si ecu
PROS: This is the easiest solution as this ecu plugs directly into your 99-00 EK, but you will need to perform the CKF bypass trick. Will be able to pass smog depending on certain variables. 99-00 Si ecu is compatible with US OBD2 scanner tools.
CONS: CFK bypass trick is required; OBD2 ecu reprogramming is very scarce; 2nd 02 sensor required.
ROS: This by far is the easiest solution as this ecu plugs directly into your EK and doesn't look for a VTPS
CONS: OBD2b>OBD2a jumper harness is required ecu upgrades are scarce; will not pass smog with a JDM OBD2 ecu as they do not communicate with US OBD2 scanner tools; 115-120mph speed limiter.
(option 2)
Convert to OBD1 ECU via OBD2b>OBD1 jumper harness and simply use an OBD1 ecu (JDM or US) to power the engine, such as a reprogrammed P28.
PROS: OBD1 ecu's rule in general as they are easily reprogrammable and do not look for additional sensors (2nd 02 & CKF for instance). OBD1 ecu's are very forgiving and not as sensitive as US OBD2 ecu's are.
CONS: cannot pass smog, VTPS required to be wired in.
(option 3a)
Stay US OBD2b spec by using a 99-00 Si ecu; 00-01 Integra GSR or ITR ECU (requires Immobilizer removal!)
(option 3b)
Convert to OBD2b spec via OBD2a>OBD2b jumper harness and use a 99-00 Civic Si ECU.
PROS: Can pass smog if CKF bypass trick is successfully performed in an integra or Civic Si chassis. If your Civic cx/dx is B-series BAR'd you should be able to pass smog too.
CONS: 2nd 02 needs to be wired in and working.
(option 4)
Run a JDM OBD2 ecu via OBD2b>OBD2a jumper harness.
Or run a JDM CTR (PCT) ecu which is OBD2b spec and will PnP.
PROS: CKF bypass trick is noCan pass smog if CKF bypass trick is successfully performed in an integra or Civic Si chassis. If your Civic cx/dx is B-series BAR'd you should be able to pass smog too.
CONS: Requires OBD2b>OBD2a jumper harness; Cannot pass smog; speed limiter at 115-120mph.
Read more at http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1972711&kcplink=1
Friday, October 1, 2010
96-98 Civic:
Engine Install:
Whether you are swapping in a B16/B18/B20vtec etc, make sure you get the correct engine mounts/shift linkage/axles!
Mounts/Brackets:
For 96-98 civics, look into getting these 99-00 Si engine brackets:
- front tranny bracket
- rear engine "T" bracket - Note: Integra "T" bracket pushes the motor forward a little too much, thats why a 99-00 Si or JDM EK4/9 "T" bracket is best to use.
- A/C bracket
- left side (driver side) dual-post engine block mount (only needed if going B18C)
Or from a 94-01 integra use these brackets:
- front tranny bracket
- A/C bracket
If you want to retain your A/C compressor, pick up a "P54" 94-97 Delsol DOHC VTEC a/c bracket or a CRV a/c bracket. Both support the smaller civic a/c compressor.
From your stock civic you'll need to reuse these brackets which are compatible with a B-series engine:
- top tranny mount
- left side (driver side) dual-post bracket
Shift Linkage: For 96-00 EK the chassis, I highly recommend to use a 99-00 Si or JDM EK4/9 shift linkage. I recently found out 94-01 integra shift linkage will not center the shift lever in the center of the shift boot area. Shifting to 2nd/4th gears the shift lever sits too far back hitting the inner edge of the shift boot console border.
Axles: You can use any axles from these vehicles: 94-01 integra (JDM or US) all 5spd models, 99-00 Si, 94-97 DOHC delsol.
Once you get the motor in, wiring is your next feat...
Wiring: Part 1
Depending if you own a non-VTEC or VTEC model EK civic you can and should reuse your existing EWH (or run a 96-98 EX 5spd EWH). You cannot use an OBD1 EWH in an OBD2 civic. OBD1 EWH's are totally incompatible because of their 2-piece design. All EK civics use a 1-piece EWH design.
2-piece means the harness has a break off point at the shock tower; 1-piece means the harness has no break off points at all and runs all the way down through the firewall directly to the ECU.
NOTE that you cannot use an OBD2b 99-00 civic wire harness in your 96-98 civic or vice versa. Don't be fooled! they look simliar but are very different as shown here:
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...e.jpg
If you have a non-vtec civic you will have to perform these mods to your EWH in order to be compatible with an OBD1 VTEC engine: (1) add the respective wiring for VTEC (2) wire in the KS (3) *perform the IACV mod.
*The IACV mod consists of converting a 3-wire IACV plug to a 2-wire IACV plug, as explained in my diagrams below. All OBD1 engines use a 2-wire IACV:
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...8.jpg
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...g.jpg
If you own a VTEC civic such as a 5-speed EX model you're lucky...almost. Using this EWH is way handy because all of the mods mentioned above are already embedded into this harness from the factory. The only downside is that 2nd 02 sensor wiring is not part of this harness, but part of the cabin harness in an EX. So, if you plan to run a US OBD2 ecu to power the OBD1 engine, you will need to manually wire in the 2nd 02 sensor. Fun fun. Now, if you plan to use an OBD1 ecu, no need to wire in the 2nd 02 as OBD1 ecu's do not look for a 2nd 02.
For those non-VTEC civic owners who are weary of wiring, I suggest locating and using a 96-98 5spd EX EWH in your non-VTEC civic. It's totally compatible with non-VTEC 96-98 EK chassis's. Make sure you pick up a 5-SPEED EX harness and not an AUTO EX harness. Auto EX harnesses are wired slightly different and will not allow your car to start. I have yet to figure out why.
That said, lets move onto injector, distributor, alternator, and IAT plug changes...
Wiring: Part 2
In order to make an OBD1 engine work in an OBD2 civic a few more wiring mods are required which consist of the distributor, injectors, alternator, IAT, and CKF sensor:
(1- Distributor plug)
Convert to OBD1 dizzy plugs by cut/splicing OBD1 dizzy plugs and mating them to your OBD2 EWH, color matching the wires - or - find yourself an OBD2 B-series VTEC distributor (any 96-00 B-series VTEC dizzy) which will PnP to your 96-98 EWH (easiest option).
(2 - Injector clips)
Convert to OBD1 injector plugs by cut/splicing OBD1 injector plugs to your OBD2 EWH, color matching the wires - or - find yourself a set of OBD2 injectors (any 96-00 injectors, B-series to be specific, but D-series will work too) which will PnP to your 96-98 EWH (easiest option).
Another option you can do is by removing the blue cap inside your OBD2 injector clip and then wiggle the clip onto the OBD1 injector as shown here:
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...p.jpg
You'll wanna use a zip tie to secure the clip onto the OBD1 injector so that engine vibrations won't allow the clip to slip off the injector. You'll know what I mean if you try this mod
(3 - Alternator plug)
OBD1 alternators use a round style plug whereas OBD2 alternators use a squarish plug; here's an image to help understand:
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/a...s.jpg
You have a few options here.
1) you can either cut and splice an OBD1 alternator plug and mate it to your OBD2 EWH or...
2) find an OBD2 B-series alternator (any 96-01 B-series alternator will do) which makes it PnP to your EWH....(easiest option) or...
3) disassemble the OBD1 alternator and swap in an OBD2 alternator's inner plug as shown in this thread:
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=461376
I believe you can use your D-series alternator plug in the OBD1 B-series alternator, but don't quote me on this as I haven't quite tried this mod yet.
(4 - IAT)
Your OBD2 IAT sensor plug is different than that of an OBD1 IAT. So, you can either keep your existing IAT sensor and make it work by making a hole in the intake arm. Or you can cut/splice the OBD1 IAT plug and mate it to your EWH so you can use the OBD1 IAT sensor thats located on the intake manifold runner.
(5 - CKF sensor)
If you're planning to use a US OBD2 ecu to power the OBD1 engine, you'll need a work around for the CKF sensor. This is the crank sensor that's integrated on the oil pump found on all US OBD2 engines. Only US OBD2 ecu's look for this sensor whereas OBD1 and JDM OBD2 ecu's do not...which means OBD1 & JDM OBD2 engines do not have a CKF sensor on the oil pump. In the old days (a coule years ago) one would have to upgrade their oil pump to that of a US OBD2 oil pump w/CKF sensor. This is probably the biggest problem when performing this kind of swap because of the $$$ & time you have to spend -- but behold the CKF BYPASS TRICK IS HERE
Once you perform this mod, you'll be glad to know that you can actually pass smog checks if your civic is B-series BAR'd or if you're running an OBD1 engine in an OBD2 integra for instance!
ECU
You have 3 options in this department.
Starting from easiest to hardest..
(option 1)
Run a JDM OBD2 ecu.
PROS: This by far is the easiest solution as this ecu plugs directly into your EK and doesn't look for a VTPS
CONS: OBD2 ecu upgrades are scarce; will not pass smog with a JDM OBD2 ecu as they do not communicate with US OBD2 scanner tools; 115-120mph speed limiter.
(option 2)
Convert to OBD1 ECU via OBD2a>OBD1 jumper harness and simply use an OBD1 ecu (JDM or US) to power the engine, such as a reprogrammed P28.
PROS: OBD1 ecu's rule in general as they are easily reprogrammable and do not look for additional sensors (2nd 02 & CKF for instance). OBD1 ecu's are very forgiving and not as sensitive as US OBD2 ecu's are.
CONS: cannot pass smog, VTPS required to be wired in.
(option 3a)
Stay US OBD2 spec by using a 96-97 DOHC VTEC Delsol P30 ecu; 96-99 Integra P72/GSR ECU; or 96-98 P73/ITR ECU.
(option 3b)
Convert to OBD2b spec via OBD2a>OBD2b jumper harness and use a 99-00 Civic Si ECU.
PROS: Can pass smog if CKF bypass trick is successfully performed in an integra or Civic Si chassis. If your Civic cx/dx is B-series BAR'd you should be able to pass smog too.
CONS: 2nd 02 needs to be wired in and working.
Whether you are swapping in a B16/B18/B20vtec etc, make sure you get the correct engine mounts/shift linkage/axles!
Mounts/Brackets:
For 96-98 civics, look into getting these 99-00 Si engine brackets:
- front tranny bracket
- rear engine "T" bracket - Note: Integra "T" bracket pushes the motor forward a little too much, thats why a 99-00 Si or JDM EK4/9 "T" bracket is best to use.
- A/C bracket
- left side (driver side) dual-post engine block mount (only needed if going B18C)
Or from a 94-01 integra use these brackets:
- front tranny bracket
- A/C bracket
If you want to retain your A/C compressor, pick up a "P54" 94-97 Delsol DOHC VTEC a/c bracket or a CRV a/c bracket. Both support the smaller civic a/c compressor.
From your stock civic you'll need to reuse these brackets which are compatible with a B-series engine:
- top tranny mount
- left side (driver side) dual-post bracket
Shift Linkage: For 96-00 EK the chassis, I highly recommend to use a 99-00 Si or JDM EK4/9 shift linkage. I recently found out 94-01 integra shift linkage will not center the shift lever in the center of the shift boot area. Shifting to 2nd/4th gears the shift lever sits too far back hitting the inner edge of the shift boot console border.
Axles: You can use any axles from these vehicles: 94-01 integra (JDM or US) all 5spd models, 99-00 Si, 94-97 DOHC delsol.
Once you get the motor in, wiring is your next feat...
Wiring: Part 1
Depending if you own a non-VTEC or VTEC model EK civic you can and should reuse your existing EWH (or run a 96-98 EX 5spd EWH). You cannot use an OBD1 EWH in an OBD2 civic. OBD1 EWH's are totally incompatible because of their 2-piece design. All EK civics use a 1-piece EWH design.
2-piece means the harness has a break off point at the shock tower; 1-piece means the harness has no break off points at all and runs all the way down through the firewall directly to the ECU.
NOTE that you cannot use an OBD2b 99-00 civic wire harness in your 96-98 civic or vice versa. Don't be fooled! they look simliar but are very different as shown here:
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...e.jpg
If you have a non-vtec civic you will have to perform these mods to your EWH in order to be compatible with an OBD1 VTEC engine: (1) add the respective wiring for VTEC (2) wire in the KS (3) *perform the IACV mod.
*The IACV mod consists of converting a 3-wire IACV plug to a 2-wire IACV plug, as explained in my diagrams below. All OBD1 engines use a 2-wire IACV:
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...8.jpg
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...g.jpg
If you own a VTEC civic such as a 5-speed EX model you're lucky...almost. Using this EWH is way handy because all of the mods mentioned above are already embedded into this harness from the factory. The only downside is that 2nd 02 sensor wiring is not part of this harness, but part of the cabin harness in an EX. So, if you plan to run a US OBD2 ecu to power the OBD1 engine, you will need to manually wire in the 2nd 02 sensor. Fun fun. Now, if you plan to use an OBD1 ecu, no need to wire in the 2nd 02 as OBD1 ecu's do not look for a 2nd 02.
For those non-VTEC civic owners who are weary of wiring, I suggest locating and using a 96-98 5spd EX EWH in your non-VTEC civic. It's totally compatible with non-VTEC 96-98 EK chassis's. Make sure you pick up a 5-SPEED EX harness and not an AUTO EX harness. Auto EX harnesses are wired slightly different and will not allow your car to start. I have yet to figure out why.
That said, lets move onto injector, distributor, alternator, and IAT plug changes...
Wiring: Part 2
In order to make an OBD1 engine work in an OBD2 civic a few more wiring mods are required which consist of the distributor, injectors, alternator, IAT, and CKF sensor:
(1- Distributor plug)
Convert to OBD1 dizzy plugs by cut/splicing OBD1 dizzy plugs and mating them to your OBD2 EWH, color matching the wires - or - find yourself an OBD2 B-series VTEC distributor (any 96-00 B-series VTEC dizzy) which will PnP to your 96-98 EWH (easiest option).
(2 - Injector clips)
Convert to OBD1 injector plugs by cut/splicing OBD1 injector plugs to your OBD2 EWH, color matching the wires - or - find yourself a set of OBD2 injectors (any 96-00 injectors, B-series to be specific, but D-series will work too) which will PnP to your 96-98 EWH (easiest option).
Another option you can do is by removing the blue cap inside your OBD2 injector clip and then wiggle the clip onto the OBD1 injector as shown here:
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...p.jpg
You'll wanna use a zip tie to secure the clip onto the OBD1 injector so that engine vibrations won't allow the clip to slip off the injector. You'll know what I mean if you try this mod
(3 - Alternator plug)
OBD1 alternators use a round style plug whereas OBD2 alternators use a squarish plug; here's an image to help understand:
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/a...s.jpg
You have a few options here.
1) you can either cut and splice an OBD1 alternator plug and mate it to your OBD2 EWH or...
2) find an OBD2 B-series alternator (any 96-01 B-series alternator will do) which makes it PnP to your EWH....(easiest option) or...
3) disassemble the OBD1 alternator and swap in an OBD2 alternator's inner plug as shown in this thread:
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=461376
I believe you can use your D-series alternator plug in the OBD1 B-series alternator, but don't quote me on this as I haven't quite tried this mod yet.
(4 - IAT)
Your OBD2 IAT sensor plug is different than that of an OBD1 IAT. So, you can either keep your existing IAT sensor and make it work by making a hole in the intake arm. Or you can cut/splice the OBD1 IAT plug and mate it to your EWH so you can use the OBD1 IAT sensor thats located on the intake manifold runner.
(5 - CKF sensor)
If you're planning to use a US OBD2 ecu to power the OBD1 engine, you'll need a work around for the CKF sensor. This is the crank sensor that's integrated on the oil pump found on all US OBD2 engines. Only US OBD2 ecu's look for this sensor whereas OBD1 and JDM OBD2 ecu's do not...which means OBD1 & JDM OBD2 engines do not have a CKF sensor on the oil pump. In the old days (a coule years ago) one would have to upgrade their oil pump to that of a US OBD2 oil pump w/CKF sensor. This is probably the biggest problem when performing this kind of swap because of the $$$ & time you have to spend -- but behold the CKF BYPASS TRICK IS HERE
Once you perform this mod, you'll be glad to know that you can actually pass smog checks if your civic is B-series BAR'd or if you're running an OBD1 engine in an OBD2 integra for instance!
ECU
You have 3 options in this department.
Starting from easiest to hardest..
(option 1)
Run a JDM OBD2 ecu.
PROS: This by far is the easiest solution as this ecu plugs directly into your EK and doesn't look for a VTPS
CONS: OBD2 ecu upgrades are scarce; will not pass smog with a JDM OBD2 ecu as they do not communicate with US OBD2 scanner tools; 115-120mph speed limiter.
(option 2)
Convert to OBD1 ECU via OBD2a>OBD1 jumper harness and simply use an OBD1 ecu (JDM or US) to power the engine, such as a reprogrammed P28.
PROS: OBD1 ecu's rule in general as they are easily reprogrammable and do not look for additional sensors (2nd 02 & CKF for instance). OBD1 ecu's are very forgiving and not as sensitive as US OBD2 ecu's are.
CONS: cannot pass smog, VTPS required to be wired in.
(option 3a)
Stay US OBD2 spec by using a 96-97 DOHC VTEC Delsol P30 ecu; 96-99 Integra P72/GSR ECU; or 96-98 P73/ITR ECU.
(option 3b)
Convert to OBD2b spec via OBD2a>OBD2b jumper harness and use a 99-00 Civic Si ECU.
PROS: Can pass smog if CKF bypass trick is successfully performed in an integra or Civic Si chassis. If your Civic cx/dx is B-series BAR'd you should be able to pass smog too.
CONS: 2nd 02 needs to be wired in and working.
Read more at http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1972711&kcplink=1
Thursday, September 30, 2010
240sx Engine Swap (My personal favorite cause i am doing one a RB26DETT ITS GOING TO TAKE A LONG TIME BUT IT WORTH IT)
All 240sx Swap Noobs, look here first or i ill chop your fingers off
Intro-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, you just got your new (old really) Nissan
The "big thing" with 240's, the engine swaps. So there is nothing about the turning or the showing in here (well a little bit of handling). With some 5 common motors to choose from, the new commers may not no where to start. Start here, but beware this is just to get you crawling, not walking. The world of swaps and motors is bigger than your brain so just chill and do your homework, this is only to inform you on the basics so you know now what to search for specifically.
The Purpose---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As stated above, we want to go faster. Just like any other car, the concept is simple, fast is fun. We all like fun. The reason for the swaps, is potential. The KA24 in stock form, lets face it, it's nothing special. They have been in your car for 1xx,xxx miles, and, well no motor lasts for ever. So what are your options. Well there are 3 thing you can do:
1) Slap an intake and some headers on her and drive her till she dies...borrrring
2) Rebuild and/or boost it. There are a fair amount of KA24DE turbo kits floating around and will surely shock your butt dyno. Without a rebuild, that 1xx,xxx miles is going to own you sooner or later, don't deny it. Rebuild it and you have yourself a beast but not everybody has that kind of money. This lead us to the main focus of this thread...
3) Swap it. An engine swap provides a great alternitave to beefing up the KA. The motors available give a great base platform to build your dream car out of. Solid, stout, and boost ready, what more could you want. So like most people on here, they choose the latter path. That choice in itself opens up a whole new world of many paths.
The Basics-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 5 common engine swaps that are nested in the 240sx Engine Bay
CA18DET
SR20DET
RB20DET
RB25DET
RB26DETT
KA24DE-T (not a swap but boost is boost)
Each of these motors is unique in their own way. All have great potential. But of course, it call comes down to, whats right for you, what you want, and even though we all hate it, your wallet.
The Motors-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So you want to know about each motor, well good because, well just read. So lets look at our situation again, we want a motor. Which one, well you sure as hell don't know because that's why your here. These motors are in order of displacement and price (with two exceptions). They also follow the same order as the engine list above.
CA18DET
Okay, here we have a 1.8L 173hp inline 4 cylinder turbo motor. The CA18 is the original motor of the S13 chassis in japan from '88-90. This thing is pretty stout for a little 1.8L. It's like the geek with glasses hiding a 3rd degree black belt. The internals are forged and good for well over 300hp before they need to be upgraded. It's a pretty rev happy motor and is great for a person with mild power goals and wants a good balance. Also, it is the cheapest of the available motors and just as easy, if not easier than the SR20 swap. For all you weight watchers like myslef, it is the lightest motor on the menu, even though it's an iron block. The engine sits pretty far back in the bay and places most of the weight beside the front axles; thats a good thing. From a handling point, it offers better weight distribution from the engine position than that of the RB motors, but were not here to talk about handling so moving on. The CA's arent very common mostly due to their age. They are oldest of the motors. When swapping its going to be in your best interest to check rod and main bearings and replace if nessesary. Pumps, belts, and some other accesories should also be checked and/or replaced. Another downside is the US aftermarket for the motor. Finding aftermarket parts isnt the easiest thing in the world but they are out there. Yet in the end it will still be the cheapest swap.
Good CA18 resource, dont be lazy, click on it: www.ca18det.org
SR20DET
If you haven't heard of this motor then, well you must have been knocked out for the past 10 or so years. SR's are by far the most common swap seen in any generation fo 240's. Why? lets take a look.There are three versions of this motor, well, technically four.
S13 Red Top SR20DET
The redtop is the most popular choice. Its the cheapest of the SR's, 203hp (dont give me crap about that because the 205 rating is in ps and not HP) with 7psi of boost coming from a T25 turbo. Basically, these suckers are nice. I personally have had a ride in a base swap and driven one with about 250hp, they pull hard and are a blast. The best thing about this motor is the aftermarket. Because everybody has one, there are a zillion parts for them. The install is pretty basic, as it's just drop in and wire. But of course, with any swap you should know what you're doing. I am adding a little here about the tech part of the swap now that i have actaully done it. I helped my buddy with his redtop swap recently. We did it in his garage,a lack of decent tools, no power tools, limited space,lack of money, and time. If anybody who was thinking about this swap was worried about install, its really not that hard. Im 16 years old, the swap isn't hard, yes it takes time, but if you use that time to do things right the first time, your in good shape. The best part of swaping any motor yourself is you learn alot, thats what counts most.
Black Top SR20DET
The differnece between the red top and black top is minimal. There are some minor ECU changes, cooling fins on the head (eariler red tops did not have them) and thats basically it. They are a little more pricy because they are newer. This is also a common choice for the same reasons as the redtop. Good power, aftermarket etc. Ok enough with these, next.
S14 SR20DET
So here we have the mid version of the SR. Some of the obvious changes at a glance are the new intake manifold, rear slanted valve cover with a hump on the front. That hump houses a variable timing system not present on the S13 SR's. These are going to get you 220hp out of the box. Some of that power comes from a larger T28 turbo. Yea all this sounds find and dandy but you are going get a bigger hole in your pocket as the price of these is a fair chunk more than the S13 SR's.
S15 SR20DET
Good stuff. 250hp on tap. 6-speed tranny to make that 3500rpm @ 80mph go away. There are pretty minimal visible differences from the S14 SR. This one has another turbo imporvment. A T28 ball baring, feeding that 250hp. But like always, goodness comes at a price. That fancy 6-speed isn't as strong as the 5-speeds that came with the rest of the SR group. And big price in this case, be ready to bust out the needle and thread for this one, it will burn a hole in your pocket. The S15 SR is the least common because its the most expensive, and like the S14 SR its also harder to install than th S13 SR's, including a driveshaft, motor mounts, more extensive wiring, etc. Yes its awesome, no you cant afford one
.
SR Wrap Up:
If you're the kind of lazy bumb with some cash and just want a motor, drop your car off at the local import tuning shop, tell them you want an SR and hand over a few grand. You will be good to go. If your looking for good power, good aftermarket, lots of potential, and just a great motor; the SR is for you. I think people are running somthing stupid like 400whp on the stock bottom end so power is plentyful. End of story, for the SR's anyways.
Opps, cant forget the link.(please, use it abuse it love it)
http://www.srswap.com/faq/index.asp
RB Series Motors
Iron block, Inline 6 turbo, strong, reliable, and some of the best damn sounds your ears will ever hear. The RB's have that "cool" factor. I know i would like to answer "Its a skyline motor." You're an instant cool person
. So lets get down to it. First off there are 3 RB swaps that are known to be done( Im excluding the RB30 hybrid as it is a rare swap).
RB20DET
OK, this motor is a common choice among RB enthusiasts. This is the expection of the list order. It is cheaper than the S13 SR20. 2.0L single turbo, pretty rev happy and again, the cheapest way to say "I have a skyline motor". Your butt dyno should read about 210ps (what, like 207hp i guess). The problems with this and all the RB motors is that aftermarket and spare parts aren't quite up to the SR for the US market. You can always pay out the ass for uber cool JDM stuff though. Internals here are strong can take a good beating past 300hp. Jumping into the RB realm requires alot more know how for the DIY swappers. You don't NEED custom mounts or driveshaft, the KA driveshaft and R32 cross member work fine, but its always nice to have a better aligned motor if you get mouts and a drive shaft.
RB20 specific site: www.rb20det.com
RB25DET
Pretty isnt it, no yours wont come with the shiny red valve cover so keep saving thoes pennies for a nice powercoat job. This and the RB20 are the usual choice of people who do RB swaps. The RB25 is a 2.5L straight 6 single turbo. Its got more power than the RB20 cheking in at 250ps ( again somthing like 246hp). Stepping up your swap skills is on the to-do list for this one. As far as install goes, you do not need custom mounts, the stock crossmember bolts up fine, if you re-drill it about 1" back for the motor mounts, their are no clearance problems except the hood, and the shifter is centered. A mount kit is still the best way to go if you are willing to pay up. www.mckinneymotorsports.com their site is goofy right now but you can get their number there.
Another good site www.rb25det.org
RB26DETT aka the godzilla motor
This RB26 is far from stock i just had to use this pic because its the sexiest engine bay ive ever seen.
This is the god motor. Its used in the old Skyline JGTC cars for a reason. The RB26 is basically a detuned race engine. It was actually designed for race use more than street use. It is the most cabable RB motor that rolled out of the nissan line up. Although this all sounds great, its also the most expensive. You need an RB25 transmission to use with the RB26 if you don't want to hammer away at your trans tunnel. Installation is also the most difficult of the RB motors so you better know your shit. The swap has some very invoved work: modding an RB25 oil pan or making a custom one, mounts, drive shaft, crazy wiring, clearance issues with twin turbo setup ( many people switch to single), and many other things, i have seen quite a few people on this forum and others who have attemped the swap and simply gave up. this swap is still the shit
And for all the good stuff about specs and whatnot...
http://www.meggala.com/nissanrb3css.htm
http://www.gt-skyline.net/
A great new forum for all the RB motors is here: www.racebread.com
KA24DE-T
Turbo KA24s can make very reliable power with little effort and some know how. This isn't going to be for the novice 240sx enthusiast unless you buy a bolt-on kit and take it somewhere.
Parts for a KA24 DIY Kit
Turbo Manifold (matched to your turbos flange)
Turbo, of course
Custom downpipe or possibly sr20 downpipes
Custom hot and cold pipes
Intercooler
BOV
Wastegate (unless your turbo is internally gated)
Upgraded Fuel pump
Upgraded Injectors
Some type of Fuel Controller
EGT Gauge (recommended)
WIDEBAND o2 (recommended)
New Clutch (recommended)
So there you have the basic parts you need to boost your KA. The biggest downside in my opinion is the lack of boost the KA can take in its stock form, but if your just looking for some fun 7psi on a SR20 t25 will make more than enough "fun" for you. There are a few comapnies that make BOLT ON kits for our cars (Edit: I dont even think Boost designs is still in busness. There was so many issues involving them, incomplete parts, shit aprts, poor designs, scams etc...). GREDDY makes a bolt-on kit for OBII or s14 KA24DE so that is an option for you s14 KA owners out there. NOW, if you want to go big power on your KA you have some options but all require a rebuild of the bottom end with some forged internals and a headgasket upgrade. Some of the SR parts are also with KA-T's. There are alot of companies that make good parts for your KA and all that info is just 1 search on GOOGLE away but ill help you get started.
Resourceful Websites
www.ka24de.com
www.KA-T.org
www.turbo240.com
Jimmy
KA-T Write-up courtesy of the user: TwoFortySx
So, What To Get-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now that you have some idea what the hell your getting into, you should have a better base to make the decision on what you want to get. For all you people that ask questions like what motor is better for drifting, shut up and do your suspension first before you crash your new pretty motor swap. Set up your suspension right and any of the motors are game. But, the logical choice would be one of the 4 bangers for weight and weight distribution reasons. If the name of your game is purly power, the RB25 and 26 are for you, but then again you can make alot of power with any of them, but thats a different story, so go bug zilvia or somthing about that. Now I can guarentee you any question you have has been answered so dont be lazy, use the search button.
Where to get your motor, clip or motorset----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is the most important step of a swap, if you get some peice of junk off ebay because its cheap, nobody is going to feel sorry for you if it goes boom, or cant even run to go boom. In the car world, yes there are deals out there but for the most part YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!! Whether you get a clip or a motorset is really up to you. A Clip is obviously going to be more expensive but your going to get absolutly everything you need and somtimes some extra goodies. Getting a complete motorset is more practical and is just as good while costing less. Projecting prices for motors swaps is really kind of useless. There are way to many variables. Where you get the motor from, its condition, miles, what you get with it, cost of replacing any parts, if you have it installed etc... rather than just throw some figure out in the open, check out the links. You can find the cost of the motors any just about any aftermarket parts you want. Use your kindergarden addition skills and you have your self a number. A couple good, reliable names in the business to get motors from...
www.jarcoinc.com
www.srswap.com
www.phase2motortend.com
www.jhotexports.com
www.jspec.com
So, you just got your new (old really) Nissan
The "big thing" with 240's, the engine swaps. So there is nothing about the turning or the showing in here (well a little bit of handling). With some 5 common motors to choose from, the new commers may not no where to start. Start here, but beware this is just to get you crawling, not walking. The world of swaps and motors is bigger than your brain so just chill and do your homework, this is only to inform you on the basics so you know now what to search for specifically.
The Purpose---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As stated above, we want to go faster. Just like any other car, the concept is simple, fast is fun. We all like fun. The reason for the swaps, is potential. The KA24 in stock form, lets face it, it's nothing special. They have been in your car for 1xx,xxx miles, and, well no motor lasts for ever. So what are your options. Well there are 3 thing you can do:
1) Slap an intake and some headers on her and drive her till she dies...borrrring
2) Rebuild and/or boost it. There are a fair amount of KA24DE turbo kits floating around and will surely shock your butt dyno. Without a rebuild, that 1xx,xxx miles is going to own you sooner or later, don't deny it. Rebuild it and you have yourself a beast but not everybody has that kind of money. This lead us to the main focus of this thread...
3) Swap it. An engine swap provides a great alternitave to beefing up the KA. The motors available give a great base platform to build your dream car out of. Solid, stout, and boost ready, what more could you want. So like most people on here, they choose the latter path. That choice in itself opens up a whole new world of many paths.
The Basics-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 5 common engine swaps that are nested in the 240sx Engine Bay
CA18DET
SR20DET
RB20DET
RB25DET
RB26DETT
KA24DE-T (not a swap but boost is boost)
Each of these motors is unique in their own way. All have great potential. But of course, it call comes down to, whats right for you, what you want, and even though we all hate it, your wallet.
The Motors-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So you want to know about each motor, well good because, well just read. So lets look at our situation again, we want a motor. Which one, well you sure as hell don't know because that's why your here. These motors are in order of displacement and price (with two exceptions). They also follow the same order as the engine list above.
CA18DET
Okay, here we have a 1.8L 173hp inline 4 cylinder turbo motor. The CA18 is the original motor of the S13 chassis in japan from '88-90. This thing is pretty stout for a little 1.8L. It's like the geek with glasses hiding a 3rd degree black belt. The internals are forged and good for well over 300hp before they need to be upgraded. It's a pretty rev happy motor and is great for a person with mild power goals and wants a good balance. Also, it is the cheapest of the available motors and just as easy, if not easier than the SR20 swap. For all you weight watchers like myslef, it is the lightest motor on the menu, even though it's an iron block. The engine sits pretty far back in the bay and places most of the weight beside the front axles; thats a good thing. From a handling point, it offers better weight distribution from the engine position than that of the RB motors, but were not here to talk about handling so moving on. The CA's arent very common mostly due to their age. They are oldest of the motors. When swapping its going to be in your best interest to check rod and main bearings and replace if nessesary. Pumps, belts, and some other accesories should also be checked and/or replaced. Another downside is the US aftermarket for the motor. Finding aftermarket parts isnt the easiest thing in the world but they are out there. Yet in the end it will still be the cheapest swap.
Good CA18 resource, dont be lazy, click on it: www.ca18det.org
SR20DET
If you haven't heard of this motor then, well you must have been knocked out for the past 10 or so years. SR's are by far the most common swap seen in any generation fo 240's. Why? lets take a look.There are three versions of this motor, well, technically four.
S13 Red Top SR20DET
The redtop is the most popular choice. Its the cheapest of the SR's, 203hp (dont give me crap about that because the 205 rating is in ps and not HP) with 7psi of boost coming from a T25 turbo. Basically, these suckers are nice. I personally have had a ride in a base swap and driven one with about 250hp, they pull hard and are a blast. The best thing about this motor is the aftermarket. Because everybody has one, there are a zillion parts for them. The install is pretty basic, as it's just drop in and wire. But of course, with any swap you should know what you're doing. I am adding a little here about the tech part of the swap now that i have actaully done it. I helped my buddy with his redtop swap recently. We did it in his garage,a lack of decent tools, no power tools, limited space,lack of money, and time. If anybody who was thinking about this swap was worried about install, its really not that hard. Im 16 years old, the swap isn't hard, yes it takes time, but if you use that time to do things right the first time, your in good shape. The best part of swaping any motor yourself is you learn alot, thats what counts most.
Black Top SR20DET
The differnece between the red top and black top is minimal. There are some minor ECU changes, cooling fins on the head (eariler red tops did not have them) and thats basically it. They are a little more pricy because they are newer. This is also a common choice for the same reasons as the redtop. Good power, aftermarket etc. Ok enough with these, next.
S14 SR20DET
So here we have the mid version of the SR. Some of the obvious changes at a glance are the new intake manifold, rear slanted valve cover with a hump on the front. That hump houses a variable timing system not present on the S13 SR's. These are going to get you 220hp out of the box. Some of that power comes from a larger T28 turbo. Yea all this sounds find and dandy but you are going get a bigger hole in your pocket as the price of these is a fair chunk more than the S13 SR's.
S15 SR20DET
Good stuff. 250hp on tap. 6-speed tranny to make that 3500rpm @ 80mph go away. There are pretty minimal visible differences from the S14 SR. This one has another turbo imporvment. A T28 ball baring, feeding that 250hp. But like always, goodness comes at a price. That fancy 6-speed isn't as strong as the 5-speeds that came with the rest of the SR group. And big price in this case, be ready to bust out the needle and thread for this one, it will burn a hole in your pocket. The S15 SR is the least common because its the most expensive, and like the S14 SR its also harder to install than th S13 SR's, including a driveshaft, motor mounts, more extensive wiring, etc. Yes its awesome, no you cant afford one
.SR Wrap Up:
If you're the kind of lazy bumb with some cash and just want a motor, drop your car off at the local import tuning shop, tell them you want an SR and hand over a few grand. You will be good to go. If your looking for good power, good aftermarket, lots of potential, and just a great motor; the SR is for you. I think people are running somthing stupid like 400whp on the stock bottom end so power is plentyful. End of story, for the SR's anyways.
Opps, cant forget the link.(please, use it abuse it love it)
http://www.srswap.com/faq/index.asp
RB Series Motors
Iron block, Inline 6 turbo, strong, reliable, and some of the best damn sounds your ears will ever hear. The RB's have that "cool" factor. I know i would like to answer "Its a skyline motor." You're an instant cool person
. So lets get down to it. First off there are 3 RB swaps that are known to be done( Im excluding the RB30 hybrid as it is a rare swap).RB20DET
OK, this motor is a common choice among RB enthusiasts. This is the expection of the list order. It is cheaper than the S13 SR20. 2.0L single turbo, pretty rev happy and again, the cheapest way to say "I have a skyline motor". Your butt dyno should read about 210ps (what, like 207hp i guess). The problems with this and all the RB motors is that aftermarket and spare parts aren't quite up to the SR for the US market. You can always pay out the ass for uber cool JDM stuff though. Internals here are strong can take a good beating past 300hp. Jumping into the RB realm requires alot more know how for the DIY swappers. You don't NEED custom mounts or driveshaft, the KA driveshaft and R32 cross member work fine, but its always nice to have a better aligned motor if you get mouts and a drive shaft.
RB20 specific site: www.rb20det.com
RB25DET
Pretty isnt it, no yours wont come with the shiny red valve cover so keep saving thoes pennies for a nice powercoat job. This and the RB20 are the usual choice of people who do RB swaps. The RB25 is a 2.5L straight 6 single turbo. Its got more power than the RB20 cheking in at 250ps ( again somthing like 246hp). Stepping up your swap skills is on the to-do list for this one. As far as install goes, you do not need custom mounts, the stock crossmember bolts up fine, if you re-drill it about 1" back for the motor mounts, their are no clearance problems except the hood, and the shifter is centered. A mount kit is still the best way to go if you are willing to pay up. www.mckinneymotorsports.com their site is goofy right now but you can get their number there.
Another good site www.rb25det.org
RB26DETT aka the godzilla motor
This RB26 is far from stock i just had to use this pic because its the sexiest engine bay ive ever seen.
This is the god motor. Its used in the old Skyline JGTC cars for a reason. The RB26 is basically a detuned race engine. It was actually designed for race use more than street use. It is the most cabable RB motor that rolled out of the nissan line up. Although this all sounds great, its also the most expensive. You need an RB25 transmission to use with the RB26 if you don't want to hammer away at your trans tunnel. Installation is also the most difficult of the RB motors so you better know your shit. The swap has some very invoved work: modding an RB25 oil pan or making a custom one, mounts, drive shaft, crazy wiring, clearance issues with twin turbo setup ( many people switch to single), and many other things, i have seen quite a few people on this forum and others who have attemped the swap and simply gave up. this swap is still the shit
And for all the good stuff about specs and whatnot...
http://www.meggala.com/nissanrb3css.htm
http://www.gt-skyline.net/
A great new forum for all the RB motors is here: www.racebread.com
KA24DE-T
Turbo KA24s can make very reliable power with little effort and some know how. This isn't going to be for the novice 240sx enthusiast unless you buy a bolt-on kit and take it somewhere.
Parts for a KA24 DIY Kit
Turbo Manifold (matched to your turbos flange)
Turbo, of course
Custom downpipe or possibly sr20 downpipes
Custom hot and cold pipes
Intercooler
BOV
Wastegate (unless your turbo is internally gated)
Upgraded Fuel pump
Upgraded Injectors
Some type of Fuel Controller
EGT Gauge (recommended)
WIDEBAND o2 (recommended)
New Clutch (recommended)
So there you have the basic parts you need to boost your KA. The biggest downside in my opinion is the lack of boost the KA can take in its stock form, but if your just looking for some fun 7psi on a SR20 t25 will make more than enough "fun" for you. There are a few comapnies that make BOLT ON kits for our cars (Edit: I dont even think Boost designs is still in busness. There was so many issues involving them, incomplete parts, shit aprts, poor designs, scams etc...). GREDDY makes a bolt-on kit for OBII or s14 KA24DE so that is an option for you s14 KA owners out there. NOW, if you want to go big power on your KA you have some options but all require a rebuild of the bottom end with some forged internals and a headgasket upgrade. Some of the SR parts are also with KA-T's. There are alot of companies that make good parts for your KA and all that info is just 1 search on GOOGLE away but ill help you get started.
Resourceful Websites
www.ka24de.com
www.KA-T.org
www.turbo240.com
Jimmy
KA-T Write-up courtesy of the user: TwoFortySx
So, What To Get-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now that you have some idea what the hell your getting into, you should have a better base to make the decision on what you want to get. For all you people that ask questions like what motor is better for drifting, shut up and do your suspension first before you crash your new pretty motor swap. Set up your suspension right and any of the motors are game. But, the logical choice would be one of the 4 bangers for weight and weight distribution reasons. If the name of your game is purly power, the RB25 and 26 are for you, but then again you can make alot of power with any of them, but thats a different story, so go bug zilvia or somthing about that. Now I can guarentee you any question you have has been answered so dont be lazy, use the search button.
Where to get your motor, clip or motorset----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is the most important step of a swap, if you get some peice of junk off ebay because its cheap, nobody is going to feel sorry for you if it goes boom, or cant even run to go boom. In the car world, yes there are deals out there but for the most part YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!! Whether you get a clip or a motorset is really up to you. A Clip is obviously going to be more expensive but your going to get absolutly everything you need and somtimes some extra goodies. Getting a complete motorset is more practical and is just as good while costing less. Projecting prices for motors swaps is really kind of useless. There are way to many variables. Where you get the motor from, its condition, miles, what you get with it, cost of replacing any parts, if you have it installed etc... rather than just throw some figure out in the open, check out the links. You can find the cost of the motors any just about any aftermarket parts you want. Use your kindergarden addition skills and you have your self a number. A couple good, reliable names in the business to get motors from...
www.jarcoinc.com
www.srswap.com
www.phase2motortend.com
www.jhotexports.com
www.jspec.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)